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Masking & Preparation To begin this effort we need to clean the metal on the car. After we clean the metal, make sure it’s arid before we start out to mask the car, also do a last minute check to be sure it’s free of all dirt grease and other contaminants. Now it’s time to mask the car, and be sure to mask all that you don’t want painted leaving no masking hanging of the car, that would get in the way of a nice paint job. The main idea of the whole thing is to create the best quality paint possible with the given surroundings, it is preferent that you have a paint booth, but if not, make sure that the area that you use to carry out the work is ultra clean and dust free. After the car has been cloaked it’s time to get ready to spray the primer, once again make sure that you have cleaned your surroundings, it’s best to have a great deal of water on the floor to keep the dust down, once you are convinced that the area is clean then you may commence checking the spray guns to be sure that they are clean. This is a very crucial step particularly if they’re not your guns, dirty guns will make an ugly paint occupation there for wasting all of your time. Now that you have determined that the paint guns are clean, make sure that your respirator is in good working order. Now be sure that you have all the productions that you need to carry out the primer occupation on the car. You will need primer, reducer and catalyst, you will likewise need strainers, stir sticks and a measuring device. It’s best not to have to leave the paint booth for the duration of the time that your priming the car. Reducer comes in dissimilar temperatures and you need to recognise what temp is best for your working conditions. The temps are as follows, their is a high temp that is designed to arid slower when it’s hot in the area where your working, high temp is good for 80 degrees and up, theirs likewise a mid temp, this in all likelihood the most ordinary temp used this is best applied from 55 to 80 degrees and is designed to arid rapidly and without delay to make up for the colder temp, due to the fact primer will run posing no difficulty in the cold weather. Now we have low temp reducer this will arid exceedingly slow hence for giving the primer a better prospect to run. I tell you all this in an venture to help you better understand the merchandise that you are working with, the more you know the better armed you are for difficultnesses when they happen. Now it’s time to enter the paint booth, and as you do recompense attention to the booth filters and be sure that they sure clean also. Now get your may of primer and read the instructions on the side, commonly the mix is 4:1 or 4 parts primer to one share reducer and a cap or two of catalyst and for the best results follow these instructions. After you spray the introductory coat of primer, you will need to wait 15 to 20 minute before you may spray the next and so on, the way I like to do this is to give the body work areas a coat or two firstborn to build them up. The whole reason we use primer is is to give the paint a smooth surface to stick to and give the metal a good deal of shelter from the elements, it’s commonly a good idea to get 4 or 5 good coats on the car. If you are actually severe regarding the way that you want it to look the you might want to take the primer one step further and use an etching primer before you spray the urethane or epoxy primer, an etching primer will give the top coat just a little more to stick to. Etching primer has no building calibers there for it’s not employed for smoothing out waves in your work, but it will make the primer stick allot better. I do suggest that you always use a urethane primer,and not lacquer type,as lacquer may and will shrink urethane or epoxy is commended for best results. Epoxy is a very hard primer to sand but it’s exceedingly tough, and urethane is I think in all probability your best choice,because it’s high building and easy sanding, their are a lot of brands to choose from, I use DuPont euro myself but it’s all up to you to choose that. Now that your card is primed, it’s time to remove the masking, and I like to do this while it’s still a little wet for the sake of ease, just be very careful in regards to how you do it, you don’t want to screw up all that nice work, so just take it slow and easy while pulling the masking off your car. (Sanding) Well now the hard part is here, before you start out to sand the car you’ll want to be sure that it’s been guide coated, this will make it more comfortable for you to get an ultra smooth finish. Heres where we weed the boys form the men, if your attempting to do a show finish on the car that your painting, you will want to sand it by hand with water running on it all the time. This is the hard part,and you will have lazy people that will want to use a machine to do this, this is just a word to the wise, you have allot better control over a hand block. The best way to give rise to this type of high quality work is to have the best control over it that you can, offten a machine will go through your primer. If your attempting to fabricate show quality work this would mean priming that area again I.E. more time spent, this is time that could be expended better doing other things. Now I will explain a bit in regards to what a guide coat is, this is it in a nut-shell. The guide coat is the step right after the car has been primed, you will have to do this before you pull the masking, what this in tails is misting a light coat of black paint over the primer so that you may see the low spots in your work, and no matter how good you are, you will have low spots. The idea behind this is to sand all the guide coat off with out going through to the metal on your car. Now it’s time to start out the actual sanding of the car, you need to recompense close attention to detail on this part of the paint job, the better you sand it, the better it will look. I ordinarily start out with 320 grit wet paper on a medium hard block, this grit is good for getting the guide coat smoothed out, their will most likely be a lot of little low spots that will require either spot filler or more primer. This is one of those areas where you need to recompense a little attention to detail, here you will need to look at the depth of the low spot and think with regards to it, how low is it will primer alone fill it, or will it take spot filler and then primer. Now that you’ve finished that share it’s time to move on to the next grit of paper, I normally move to 400 grit on a medium- hard sanding block from here, you don’t want to move up to far because it may leave scratches form the former grit of paper, so a word to the wise, don’t get in a hurry and move up to far a once this will leave seeable scratches in your work. After you’ve sanded the whole car with the 400 grit wet paper then inspect it for bare metal and guide coat still there. The whole idea with sanding is to make the primer look the way that you want the paint to look, I sand my primer until it has a smooth shiny finish on it, as if it were the paint on the car. You need to have a resourcefulness of how you want it to look, the one thing that you need to know is, the better you want it to look, the more you will pay for materials. Just a word of caution cheap paint materials are just incisively that cheap!!!!! and don’t use them if you want a nice paint job. You might save a good deal of cash but you will not save the intense feelings of suffering of a crappy looking paint job. Think when it comes to this before you go and buy cheap primers and paints, do I love my car or is it just a heap of turd to push me to work and the old ladies and back, if you love your car then don’t put cheap crap on it. Now that I’m through with my little lecture on low quality products, it’s time to move on to the next sanding step. From 400 grit I ordinarily move up to 600 grit wet paper, this is where I ordinarily stop unless requested to go one more step, this is genuinely as far as you need to go with the sanding. After you finish with the 600 grit do one final inspection of the work before cleaning it. Well now it’s time to clean the car, for this just use soap and water, just like washing a car normally. You must blow it arid though, this being the main divergence among this and a regular wash job, be sure to blow all the water out of the little cracks in the car, like the cowl area, underneath the hood, amongst the doors and in the trunk lid. Believe me this will blow water on your paint for the duration of the actual painting of the car, so be very through regarding this step. If you miss galore and it happens to get in your paint for the duration of the spraying procedure it will bubble the paint, the paint will look horrid so be sure to get all of the water out of the car first. Now it’s to mask for the actual paint, for this refer back to the top of this page. Masking right is an art and you better take this percentage very severe if you want a good job. Now that you’ve dissembled your car it’s time to put it in the paint booth, hopefully this is a temperature controlled booth, in any case when you roll that car in the booth all you will have to have to do is clean and spray, again before you put your car in the booth make sure that it’s ultra clean in there and ready to go. Now make sure that you have everything you need in there to paint the car I.E. paint, reducer, catalyst, stir sticks, strainers and stir sticks and a measuring stick. Once again check your respirator and be sure that it’s working properly, tie your hair back and if you have a beard cover your face. Follow all instructions on the back of the paint may to the letter or it could cause difficultnesses with the out come of your paint. Now that you have the car in the booth, be sure to double check the masking on it, what you are looking for here is perfection and not one thing less. This means everything that if you don’t want it painted it will have to be dissembled for sure, their is no room for error here. Now you need to take a look at the furnishes that you have to do the occupation with, and inventory them to be sure that you have everything you need to finish the job, the last thing you need is to find that you don’t have something right in the middle of painting the car. Here’s a list of what you will need for the job. Supply List 1) Paint 2) sealer 3) reducer 4) Catalyst 5) Tack Cloths, preferably designed for clear coat 6) Measuring Cups 7) Stir Sticks 9) Strainers 10) Respirator in working order Now I will give you a few things to think about, if your painting with metallic paints then you must pay allot attention to the settings on your paint gun. Metallic paints will tend to get lighter if the pressure goes up and darker if it goes down, your liquid flow and fan on your gun will also effect this. Now I will give you a basic mixing chart, most paints will follow this chart. Instructions 1) get your paint ready to pour. 2) make sure that your mixing cup is clean. 3) Get your strainer and sticks. 4) Put a strainer in the top of the measuring cup. 5) Now pay close attention to the level of paint in the cup. Paint Mixing Table. Always be sure to read and follow the paint manufactures mixing guide lines. These mixing ratios are just a basic idea of what to do, things will modify with dissimilar manufactures. Recommended Air Pressure At Gun Head. Paint Mix Ratios. Paint Product. 25-40 PSI Mix 4:1:1 Sealer 25-40 PSI Mix 4:1:1 Clear Coat 25-40 PSI Mix 2:1:1 Primer Coat When using a paint gun, you try to achieve a sure spray pattern without any heavy or light areas, in the pattern chart above you would undertake to achieve pattern (A). Now a lesson on gun angle. Their are only two angles you ought to ever need to use when keeping a spray gun, and they are 45 and 90 degrees angles to the surface of the car that you are spraying, these angles will give you the best outcome possible, and likewise you must undertake to keep the spray gun at in regards to 6 to 8 inches from your work. If you get much closer you will more then likely cause a run in the paint and, much more distance and you will get a arid look to your paint job, you likewise need to get a feel for the speed that you need to move the gun according to the air pressure and liquid flow of the gun.
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Measuring Stick
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